LBNL Homepage Yosemite Valley, Oct 9-10 2004 NERSC Homepage



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It's Valley season again!

NOAA claimed 20% chance of showers, for both Saturday and Sunday, and we know how reliable they are. I won't mention what Yahoo or Intellicast claimed. We decided to risk it anyway, and did the Hardin Flat thing on Friday night. For once, traffic was light, as Erin and I left pretty late, arriving around 11ish. Matt D. pulled up in his behemoth a few minutes later - they had risked the food in Manteca. A few hours later, Matt O. and Susan arrived, and delighted us by bequeathing the gift of light upon our slumbering forms, as they tried to determine who we were, and if that really was Jack and Charles, why were they snuggling so close.

I awoke bright and early the next morning, much to the dismay of certain other parties. Actually, pretty much to the dismay of all other parties. Before I knew what was going on, Erin had bundled up her sleeping bag and pad, and crawled into the car to resume her sleep with a muttered comment of "wake me up when we get there." I tried to gather support for breakfast at the entrance, but lethargy was running high on all fronts. After walking around to make sure that all parties were awake, (no sense pandering to slackers), I led the charge to the entrance. Luckily there was no enemy resistance, as my support lagged far behind. Eventually the rest of the troops showed up, and vague plans were hatched. Matt, Eric and EGF showed their Canadian blood by choosing to brave the frosty domes of Tuolumne, whereas Matt, Susan and I selected the high density of stars of Glacier Point Apron. Erin took no part in the hatching as she was still slacking. I mean sleeping.

It pained me greatly, but I was forced to wake Erin up as we entered the Valley, as she hadn't been there in decades, and it would be wrong to miss the views. We stopped off near the Cathedrals for a bit of breakfast, and admired various bits of vertical rock. After several other stops - barely escaping the tourons and their "ooh, did you see the stag? And did you see what the coyote did? It ran off into the grass, and caught something! I tried to catch it on my camera, but I was already at 36, and didn't have the digital....." aaarrgggrhhh - , we eventually made it to the Apron, where the details of The Plan fleshed out. Matt and Susan tried out Harry Daley, while Erin and I attempted Point Beyond (5.8) Non-trivial slab start, discontinuous lieback, awkward scrambling at the top. We decided not to do the second pitch, as it looked sucky (I believe that's the technical term).

We paused for lunch (yes, despite my early start, we had somehow managed to fritter away the time), and were about to join Matt and Susan on Harry Daley, when they came down, complaining of the cold and wind. Well, that's what happens when you climb in the shade. The Plan was hastily rewritten, with strongly worded clauses mentioning sunshine and warmth added. Erin went "Yay!"

The base of El Cap was ridiculously overcrowded, or at least it seemed to from the cars parked by the road, so we tried out Pat and Jacks, which had fewer admirers. I warmed up on Knob Job (5.10b), and set a TR, while Matt went up KnuckleHeads (5.10b). Erin followed on Knob Job, and sent the 10d variation by mistake. I was most impressed. I couldn't let things stand like that, so I went up it again, and tried the 10d part myself. Rather tricky and delicate! I then moved the line over to Sherrie's Crack (5.10c), where we all ran a few laps, until it got dark and my fingers hurt.


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Matt and Susan on KnuckleHeads

We chose dinner on the pizza deck instead of Tasty-bites, then sought out Bill & co in the Upper Pines. They had a large crowd there already, so after scaring a bear away from their (open!) bear box - it only got one bag of food - we returned to Hardin Flat for the night.

On Sunday we got up late. Real late. By the time we got to the Valley, Reed's - which had been our intended destination - was packed to the brim. It was a beautiful day, and it seemed likely that other cragging spots would be equally full. We decided to renew our acquaintance with Pat and Jacks again, and didn't find too many folks there. We started off on Nurdle (5.8), going all the way to the top, then moved around the corner where we tried Skinheads (5.10d). Other than the really reachy crux at the start, where she demonstrated her batmanning skills, Erin rather liked that route. I discovered that one of the two midway anchor bolts had been chopped, which complicated matters slightly. I then TRed Underclingon (5.12a), and continued on to the top of Skinheads where I did a top belay while Erin had a go at Underclingon too. Rapped down to the top of The Tube (5.11a), where I set up a TR, and had a go at that. Erin also tried it, until she fell out and swung over the 12c slab to its left. She tried that then, until the holds ran out and the ugly nature of 12c slab revealed itself. I had one more go at The Tube, and when I came down found that my right wrist was really sore. Odd.


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Erin on Skinheads

We packed up, then headed to where I could get my phone messages - we were supposed to give Vivian a lift back unless she called. There was a slightly ambiguous message, which I interpreted to mean that she was getting a ride back with Dan and Lynsey, so we took off. Just past Groveland, we caught up with Dan and Lynsey, and as I passed them Erin peered into their car to see if Vivian was there. We weren't really sure, but it didn't look like it. But we figured that even if she was waiting for us at the Meadows, spending the night wouldn't be a problem, and she would probably thank us for letting her get an extra day in the valley. We were slightly more disconcerted when Vivian's absence was confirmed at the Taqueria, but Dan spilled the beans too early and let out that she had caught a ride with Janelle.

It's been almost a week, and my wrist is still sore. I coldn't even type for a couple of days. Don't know what the hell I did, but looks like no climbing this weekend. Bugger!


last modifed on: Friday, 21-Apr-2006 18:37:33 PDT