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What a disastrous weekend. It started off pleasantly enough, when Rod and I drove out to the Valley on Friday evening, rendezvousing with Matt and Susan at the Pines. They had spent the day at Manure pile, which was fairly empty as the Northside drive is closed - they had brought bikes with them which speeded the journey significantly. Jack and Alex were to join us on Saturday morning. Bright and early on Saturday, Rod and I made for Reeds, and decided to warm up on Reed's direct. It was a beautiful day, warm and sunny, and as I took the first pitch, and was about 2 feet off the ground when my foot slipped, and I somehow managed to dislocate my right shoulder as I fell. As I was cursing and clutching my shoulder on the ground, I backed into the rock, which managed to pop my shoulder back into its socket, making it feel much better. Not a good way to start the season. After sitting on the ground for a few minutes, and letting the sweats, nausea and light headedness of shock pass, I decided against continuing, so unroped and we headed to the other end of the pinnacle, where Rod took the lead on Center Route (5.7). I followed, and though my shoulder felt pretty sore and weak, it was usable. Damn I'm stupid. I really shouldn't have been climbing on it at all, but it was such a beautiful day, that I couldn't resist. Rod then led Ejesta (5.8), which despite certain small peoples' complaints, is a fabulous route.

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Rod and Charles (and the cytomax!) on Ejesta

As we walked back down the trail, we encountered Jack, Alex, John and Sue on Stone Groove. So we ran a couple of laps on that. I was climbing much more slowly and deliberately, using my feet much more than my arms, and it actually felt really easy. Maybe this will be a good way to improve my footwork. After lunch, we moved on to Lunatic Fringe, where more laps were run, including Jack downclimbing it. Looks like he's preparing to solo it, getting ready for his next big breakup.

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Jack on Lunatic Fringe

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Shenanigans at the base. That's tape that Jack's putting on his hands!

We repaired to Camp Curry for a pizza dinner, and as we walked in, noticed Matt and Susan next to the fireplace. And a pair of crutches. Oh oh. At first I wouldn't believe that the crutches belonged to them, but then I saw a big bandage on Susan's foot. Damn. She had gotten off Route on Munginella, and taken a big fall, rolling her ankle and getting an evulsion fracture. Ouch! Matt yosared her, and took her to the clinic where she got x-rayed, splinted and crutched. We hung out in front of the fireplace for a few hours, waiting for the interminable pizza line to advance, swilling down the beer and wine until we finally managed to eat. A whole bunch of other familiar faces showed up, including Dave and Illy who had been show shoeing up at the point, and were roughing it out in the Lodge. After dinner, Matt and Susan returned to the Bay Area, while the rest of us went back to the Pines. On Sunday, since doing Free Blast with Jack was no longer a viable option, Rod, Jack, Alex, John, Sue and I hiked up to Sentinel Creek, for some of the stellar cracks there. Jack started off on Ying-Yang (5.10d), while Rod went up Hari Kiri (5.10a). Hari Kiri was a bit wet in spots, but not too bad. Ying Yang was dry, and fantastic - thin fingerlocks in a dihedral, with the occasional forced lieback move. Yum. Both these routes are a little over 100 ft long, though you can TR them with a single 60m line if you extend the anchors over the large block at the top. Still takes 2 ropes to rap though, unless you want to downclimb a bit.

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Rod on Ying Yang, and Jack on Manana

Jack and Alex also did Manana (5.10d), and then Jack tried the 5.12a pitch above it, but had to give up when the clouds that had been building all morning decided to open up on us with rain and hail. Pulling out a lost arrow with his hand also didn't help his confidence. We bailed around 3 when it became clear that the rain was serious. In his hurry, Jack dumped his gear and stood in a patch of poison oak - now we'll see just how immune he really is. After a brief stop in the Mountain room, we headed back to the bay, and of course ran into the usual crowd at El Agave. To really round out the weekend, Alex was the recipient of a speeding ticket near Buck Meadows. More ouch!

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