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This weekend did not start particularly well. As I turned off of Alcatraz onto Claremont to go and pick up Chris, I discovered a line of 7 motorcycle cops who had set up a speed trap. Unfortunately, the also discovered me, at 40 in a 30 zone. I don't know if I really believe that - my car can't accelerate from 0 to 40 in 20 yards - it's a bloody subaru! I'm going to fight this one. The rest of the trip to the Meadows was thankfully uneventful, and we found the "Sugarman Site" easily. Thanks Jeremy! There were large pools of water in the road - it looked like it had dumped down fairly recently. I pitched a tent just so the site would look like it was occupied the next day, as we were heading out way too early to check in - we had plans for Conness and North Peak. After far too little sleep, and a hasty breakfast, Chris and I drove up to Saddlebag Lake, and started hiking around 7:15. Chris was going to climb the snow/ice couloir on North Peak, and I was going to try for the North Ridge / West Ridge linkup on Mt. Conness. We parted ways a little north of Greenstone Lake, and once again, I chose to enter the valley a little too far south. I should really re-read my old TRs! The scree at the end of the valley looked as unappealing as last time, so I did the 5th class scramble up the wall at the edge of the North ridge, just like last time. I think I even picked the same line! As I was going up, I heard a massive rumble behind me, and saw a huge rock fall off the north-east side of Conness, with gigantic boulders tumbling down to the glacier below. It went on for quite some time.

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North Peak, and looking back at Saddlebag Lake from the North Ridge

About half way along the ridge, I encountered Cindy and Bob, who were pitching it out. I paused for a few photos, then continued on to the summit, reaching it around 10:15. There were a few clouds building to the West, but nothing to the East, so I decided to try for the West ridge as well. I started down the gully from the plateau a little too soon, and had to do a bunch of 5th class down climbing, but didn't lose too much time, reaching the toe of the buttress at 11. After a 10 minute break for some food and water, I started heading up. There really isn't much 5th class on the West ridge - that's the last time I bother bring rock shoes for anything on Conness, they stayed in my pack the whole time. (Ok, maybe for the Harding route...) It's mostly just a lot of 4th class. About half way up, I suddenly noticed the effects of the altitude and started feeling a little tired. As I approached the summit for the second time, just after noon, I ran into Bob and Cindy again, who were just finishing up. We had lunch together, and relaxed for a bit, until the building clouds started to make us a little nervous, and we decided to head for home.

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Charles, Cindy and Bob on the North Ridge

Instead of the normal descent via Alpine Lake, I wanted to try the East ridge, and hopefully come out somewhere around Saddlebag lake. The ridge made for a fun traverse, and then I found a beautiful snow couloir that wasn't too steep, and just couldn't resist. I wrapped my jacket around my waist, sat down, dug my heels in, and slid down 1000 feet of snow! Wheeeee! Snow was flying everywhere, my feet were barely able to control my speed, and I had to dig my hands in as well from time to time. I was laughing so hard, that I almost choked on the flying snow. I wish I had been able to film it! From time to time I would hit a patch of harder snow or ice, and really feel it, but luckily I was able to steer away from the rocks. This is by far the funnest way down! The couloir exited me in the valley not far from where Chris and I had parted company, so it was an easy walk back to Saddlebag Lake and the car. I got back there just after 3, and found Chris stretched out on his pad, reading in the shade. He had gotten back from North Peak about an hour and a half earlier, where he had had loads of fun in the ice climbing the north couloir on North Peak.

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The trail my ass left in the couloir, and some alpine meadows

After an ice cream break at the Meadows store, where we also ran into Mike and Rachael, we drove back to the campsite, for some rest and relaxation. While Mike and Rachael hiked to Cathedral Lakes, Chris and I tossed a disc around for an hour, but in a somewhat lethargic way - if it was more than a foot out of reach, neither of us was really willing to run for it. My forehand throw did get a lot better though! We called it around 6, and headed for the Mobil station, where we ran into Ashley, who was dead tired after a moonlight hike to the top of half dome to watch the sunrise. This time I went for one of the specials - elk chops and duck breast. Mmmm! Oh, and mango margaritas and chocolate cake of course. On Sunday, we slept in a bit, and decided to do some shorter routes a little closer to the road. We started out on American Wet Dream (5.10a), swapping pitches. I love this route, as it doesn't see much traffic, though it is unfortunately now in the Supertaco. The "R" bit probably scares most people off, though in reality the R is the 5.7 at the top. This time, instead of doing the descent on the right, I decided to explore the ledges to the left, and found a much shorter path, though it does involve some very minor 5th class. Just follow the big ledge down and left, dropping down the easiest way through a series of ramps. After pausing for lunch in the shade, we moved on to By Hook or by Crook (5.11b). The first pitch went much more easily than last time, though my choice of the Anasazis for footwear probably helped. The second pitch was just as hard though, and the pin above the crux was gone. I even managed to place a blue alien with only two lobes in contact, for purely psychological purposes.

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Chris and Charles on American Wet Dream

We even stopped for some more ice cream at the Crane Flats gas station - I think we earned it! And to match the way the weekend started with the ticket and all, the "check engine" light in my car went on during the drive home. God damn subarus! Anybody know a good mechanic?

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