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(1500x1000 at 588.5 kb)
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This weekend, Erin and I were joined by Cindy and Sameer, a couple of
friends of hers from school. We didn't have time for a full weekend
trip to the Valley, so we chose to return to the Grotto. Jack was
also in the neighbourhood - he had spent the previous day at the
Far Side, and agreed to join us.
We had some fun at the first gate - several horses were present,
blocking the way, and didn't want to move. After some gentle pushing,
we finally got them off the road and I quickly drove through, though
they retaliated by trying to eat my rear windshield wiper. Just as we
started hiking up the road, Jack arrived, along with a crew from
Ironworks - Adam, Cathy, Carlos and Carlos' girlfriend, whose name I
never learned. When we arrived at the Grotto, we discovered to our
dismay that it was very wet, despite the fact that it was a beautiful
day. A week of rain had soaked the ground, and it was seeping through
the rock in many places.
I set up a rope on
Sidesaddle (5.9+),
on the right side of the Ort wall, for Cindy
and Sameer to try, then belayed Jack as he warmed up on
Rawhide (5.10d), after
which I set up another line on
Chicken Ranch Bingo (5.10a).
Erin led the 5.9, while the rest of the Ironworks crew started on
Granted (5.9) and
Three Fingered Jack (5.10b),
and I did a couple of laps on Rawhide. At that point, Jack felt warm enough
to lead
Snake Bite (5.11b).
He was doing great until he got to the section with the loose block off
to the right. As he was pulling on it, it ripped out and came hurtling
toward me accompanied by shouts of "rock!" Luckily I dodged and it missed
me, but as I hauled in the slack Jack shouted "I'm still on!" Amazingly
enough, he hadn't fallen and so kept going. Moments later, I was almost
beaned by a dropped belay device from another party on Three Fingered Jack.
Despite all the commotion, Jack kept on going and made a clean ascent. Wow!
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| The rock of (almost) doom |
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I followed and cleaned, and then continued onto Ejection Seat (5.12a).
I was cruising pleasantly along, until I was thwarted by a series of
sopping wet holds at the crux. Unwilling to make a very committing
move liebacking off a wet sloper after skipping three other equally
wet holds, I took. Luckily, after resting a bit, I was able to pull
through on tenuous and slimy holds, using alternate beta, and got to
the top. I guess it'll have to wait for a drier day. I looked
longingly at Flight Simulator, but it was completely out of the
question, being much wetter. |

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(1194x1008 at 240 kb)
| | Lunch and Erin on Grotto Monkey |
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After pausing for lunch, Jack decided to have a try at
Grotto Monkey (5.12a).
We preclipped the first bolt to prevent an ugly fall in case the holds
were wet, and after that Jack went bolt to bolt. Most of the holds
were dry, but a couple of key ones were dripping. I followed it with
equal success, and then Erin had a go as well. After that
I led Snake Bite, then Three Fingered Jack.
Meanwhile, Jack did some laps - both up and down - on Rawhide. Erin
then had a go at leading Three Fingered Jack, and sent it without
issue, leapfrogging over the whole 5.9 and 5.10a grades in her trad
leading repertoire! At this rate she'll be leading 5.12 trad by
the end of the summer - finally, someone to lead the really hard stuff
for me! |

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(1200x1600 at 1273 kb)
| | A cheeky slug, and Erin on Three Fingered Jack
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I finished off on
Hole in the Wall
(5.10a),
while Erin cleaned Chicken Ranch Bingo. Cindy and Sameer were beat - this
was their first time climbing outside, and had been playing on Chicken
Ranch, and Granted. Their arms were tired, their hands bloodied and
scratched, but they were happy. Hopefully they'll stay happy and
won't discover that they came into contact with Poison Oak....
We headed back to the car, and drove
back, running into Brian at the Taqueria. He had been at Jailhouse,
which had been equally wet. Bugger. Well, the weather's supposed to
stay dry for the coming week, so maybe the conditions will improve.
So the dilemma is where to go next weekend - the Valley or Jailhouse.
Decisions, decisions.....
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