LBNL Homepage The Grotto, Feb 26 2005 NERSC Homepage



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Another weekend of inclement weather ruled out a long stay in the Valley, but it looked like the clouds would hold off long enough for a day trip to the Grotto. Rod and Jack joined me this time, and amazingly enough, Jack made it to the rendevouz at my house before Rod. And it didn't even require a wakeup call!

After a face climb warmup on Chicken Ranch Bingo (5.10a), we moved into the Grotto proper, where Jack led Table Manners (5.9), while I TRed the 5.11 crack to its left. Meanwhile, Rod set up Sidesaddle (5.9+) on the opposite wall. Though the sky was clear, the rock was showing the effects of a week of rain, and was much damper to the touch than two weeks ago. There was also a lot more seepage in places, with water dripping down to form puddles on the ground.


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Jack on Chicken Ranch Bingo, and Table Manners

Jack, who hasn't climbed in 6 weeks, due to elbow tendinitis, decided that Rawhide (5.10d) needed to be dealt with, and sent it with enviable style and grace. He certainly made it look easy. I figured I need to send it properly, without cheating by using the other cracks, and after my efforts on it last time, I thought it would go down smooth and easy, like a Romanee Conti. Instead it went down like three day old Ripple. I even managed to fall on it when my foot slipped. So much for my big words! After finishing it, I set up a TR, and people ran some laps on it. Meanwhile, John and some friends were working on Ejection Seat (5.12a) on the upper tier, which looked like loads of fun, so I set my sights on that. There were rumours of wet holds, but I decided to ignore them.


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Jack on Rawhide, and Charles on Ejection Seat

So after some lunch, and after going up Rawhide again, I sat down on the top of a column to switch out my Mythos for the Anasazis, then proceeded to the left, and up Ejection Seat. Very fun! The climb was much like those at Jailhouse, only somewhat easier. There were some hidden holds, and yes, some water, but it was all very doable with a couple of good rests on big holds. Though it doesn't look like it'll make it, a 60m rope will get you up and down without a problem.

Jack then had a go at Snake Bite (5.11b), but ran into some trouble just over the roof. Finally his off the couchness was beginning to show in a lack of endurance. Despite repeated falls (ooh, my poor green alien!), he pushed on through to the top. I TRed it a couple of times, both with and without that loose block to the right - that thing's going to rip one of these days.


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Jack on Snake Bite

Jack did a couple of laps on Clip Clip Clip Wow (5.10c), while I cleaned the rope off of AC Devil Dog (5.10d). Rod and Ryan went back to the Welcome Wall and did a route on the far right, whose name I can't remember and isn't in my guide book, and I finished off with a few laps on Clip Clip Clip Wow. We hiked out just as dusk was beginning to fall, to the soothing sounds of some dirt bikers tearing up the topsoil, and we proceeded to the Taqueria for a delectable meal of Steak Fajitas. Mmmmm.


Nick Wed Mar 2 2005 12:48:08
   Jack good to see you back in your element climbing again!!


AclimbersGUIDE Mon Apr 10 2006 16:50:12
   think about submitting your photos to the updated guide for
   sonora pass that will be published very soon


last modifed on: Tuesday, 18-Apr-2006 13:10:06 PDT