LBNL Homepage Donner Summit, July 23 2005 NERSC Homepage


This has not been a good year for me, from an injury point of view. Torn ligaments in right wrist. Sprained right thumb. Dislocated right shoulder. Meniscus tear like problem in left knee (though my doc swears the MRI doesn't support this conclusion). And now, more knee problems.

The day started off innocently enough, though with high aspirations. It's been a while since I challenged myself outside on a hard sport route, and I was hoping to have a go at Warp Factor. Cindy, Vivian and I drove up to Donner summit in one car, while Rod, Vanda, and Christian drove up in another. Despite a stop at Ikeda's on the way up, we arrived at a reasonable hour. Rod and I warmed up on Bottomless Topless (5.10a), where I was momentarily confused by the exit move - I haven't climbed it in a couple of years, and my memory leaves much to be desired. Viv and Cindy started up Split Pea, and Christian and Vanda had a go at Composure. We then moved on to Jam Session (5.10b), and everything was going fine until I tried to make the last move out of the crack, at which point I felt my left patella shift sideways and my knee turn in a way that it's not meant to. Some strange noises came out of my throat as I clutched my knee (badly scraping my left arm in the process), but I managed to hang onto the hand jam while I rearranged my leg into more normal position. I then put in a piece and asked Rod to lower me.....

I went into shock when I touched down, but 3 vitamin Is and a few minutes with my head between my knees fixed that. I bandaged up my knee while Christian came and finished off the route, then after everyone else ran it, I had a go too. Didn't feel too bad. Didn't feel too good either, but I figured I could climb for the rest of the day. My plans for Warp Factor were pretty much dashed though.


(2048x1536 at 1041 kb)

(1536x2048 at 1265 kb)
Charles just before he hurts himself, and Christian getting ready to go

Just about then, Jack showed up with his parents. They were visiting for a few days, and he had decided to show them the Lake Tahoe area, and since Snowshed Wall is such an important part of the region historically, he was forced to stop by. By some strange coincidence, he just happened to have his harness and shoes with him....

Cindy and I then went and did Aerial (5.11b), which has some rather long moves and can be a bit of an issue before the second bolt if you don't have the reach. Meanwhile, Christian had put up Disciples of the New Wave (5.11b), so we ran a lap on TR on that one. Mixed sport/trad, rather fun. Individual moves are easier than Aerial, but a bit more sustained. Holds are easier to find too.

Meanwhile, Jack had gone up The Thing (5.10d), and Peter Principle (5.11a). My knee was holding up ok, and it would have been a shame to let a perfectly good TR go to waste, so Viv and I did a few laps on Peter. It was getting rather warm as the sun moved around the rock, so after we had exhausted Peter, we all moved around the corner for some runs on Little Feat (5.10d) and Farewell to Arms (5.10b). We called it quits after that, as it was getting late and we didn't want to miss Ikeda on the way back. Mmmm, Tasty Burgers and Pie!


(2048x1536 at 1425 kb)

(1536x2048 at 1025 kb)
Cindy and Viv hang out, and Cindy and Rod on Farewell to Arms and
Little Feat

Not the best of trips for me, but everyone else had a good time. I guess Warp Factor will have to wait 'till later this fall.


Bad Cube Wed Jul 27 2005 19:50:05
   Charles you make me glad to only have a sprained ankle and
   some minor tweaks in the elbows.  I think we should all
   chip in toward some titanium replacement parts for your
   next Birthday.  
   BTW Thanks for letting me tag along...I might start liking
   this crack climbing business afterall.  Peter what's his
   name was fun.


Sir Breaks-things-alot Thu Jul 28 2005 10:54:05
   
   I'll take you up on that. I'll be wanting new knees (both
   of them), new shoulders, new fingers and new thumbs. And
   might as well get a new head while I'm at it.


last modifed on: Tuesday, 18-Apr-2006 13:05:12 PDT