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Memorial weekend on the east side is a welcome tradition, and I was able to
indulge this year, tacking on an extra day on each end of the long weekend.
Bryan and I left for Horton Creek on Thursday night, making good time over
the newly opened Tioga pass. Rod, arriving earlier, had already staked out a
bunch of sites. Dan, Lynsey, Keira and Tom also came out on Thursday, so
on Friday morning, after being woken up by the baking sun at 7, we headed
north to cooler country. We made the excellent decision to take Rod's 18 year
old honda civic, loaded it up with 4 bodies, and tackle the dirt roads that
lead to Clark Canyon. Most of Rod's car survived the trip. Unfortunately,
given our late start, we only managed to tick a couple of routes before the
skies opened up. After waiting out the storm, then rescuing a wet rope, we
bailed and spent the remainder of the afternoon at the Bachar boulders, doing
highball problems without a crash pad.
On Saturday, we were joined by the rest of the gang - Jack, Kelly, Dan,
Pascale, Eva, Ed, Vivian, John and Brian. We headed to the Pratt's Crack gully
at Pine Creek, where Bryan and I started off on the 4 pitch
Rites of Spring (5.10d).
After some shenanigans at the base with neophytes and obnoxious locals, we
headed up, making it as far as most of the way up the 3rd pitch before it
started to rain. Deciding that discretion was the better part of valour, we
bailed off a couple of old slings and were down before the weather got serious.
Seeing as the weather wasn't going to improve, we packed up and
headed into the gorge where we spent the rest of the day at the Social Platform,
trying to remember how to climb slick tuff.
Sunday was spent at Pine Creek again, where the crag was overrun by ill behaved
dogs, their ill behaved owners, and gumbies galore. Despite the crowds, I
really enjoyed this area - beautiful rock, pleasant temps (Mustache wall stays
in the shade all day), awesome lines. We warmed up on
Supergrinder (5.10d), a very
mellow 2 pitch bolted route - more like 5.9, then moved on to
Mr. Ridiculous (5.11a)
and
Gala Tumble (5.10d),
both of which were pleasantly sustained and intricate. After lunch, we tried
Window Shopper (5.11c),
and
Stone Cold Fusion (5.12a),
both stellar lines. The routes tend to be technical and well featured, with
intricate moves, more demanding of footwork than upper body strength. The
gumbies and obnoxious morons were out in full force though, and I finally
lost my cool at the end of the
day (yes - I know it surprised many, but given sufficient provocation, I too
can loose my temper) after getting hit in the head by a rock displaced by
a repeatedly careless
group, with a pack of dogs that were totally out of control. If you can't
control your dogs, you should leave them at home, or tie them up somewhere
well out of the way.
We liked the area so much, that Rod, Bryan and I returned on Monday to
finish off the routes on Mustache Wall. After an unpleasant warmup on
B-Gizzle (5.10c),
(while I appreciate the job he's done, I've never been a huge fan of Marty
Lewis's bolt placements. You can really tell that this route was rap bolted)
we ran a couple of laps on
Flamethrower (5.11d)
which has a very fun roof. I think the grade in the guide is a misprint - it's
more like a 10d or 11a. The crowds were much more pleasant to deal with today -
no flying rocks or roving dog packs. We moved on to
Coven (5.11b), and
Phenomena (5.11b), both
amazingly fun lines. If Coven is a 5-star, then Phenomena is a 6 or 7! The
clouds were seriously starting to threaten by then, and I was just finishing
the new line (11b?) right of Coven when it started to drizzle. BTW, whomever
placed the anchors on this route deserves some serious castigation - mantle up
to a ledge, then a totally blank face from there to the anchors, which are
at arms' reach for me. If you're less than 5.10, you're shit out of luck and
won't be able to clip them). We packed up decided to head up canyon to
explore Silverback Wall and the mine. The rain had petered out by then, but
the clouds were still building. After checking out the Silverback area, which
looks stellar despite the chossy approach, we continued up to the end of
the road, and hiked up to the old mine. We had just reached it when the
skies opened up, and we got pelted with hail and rain. Ouch. We raced back
to the car, thoroughly soaked, and returned to the camp site, pausing on
occasion to watch the storm. It was still raining at camp, so we punted on
cooking dinner, and headed in to town to watch Star Trek. Much fun. Dinner
was a very dissapointing meal at the Whiskey Creek.
The next morning, Bryan and I packed, leaving Dan, Lynsey and Keira behind.
They were
going to spend a few more days on the east side, finishing up with a jaunt
through Reno to visit Ed and Viv's new digs. We stopped off in the meadows,
and opened up the Tuolumne season with an ascent of
Needle and Spoon (5.10a).
That first pitch is every bit as sustained as I remember - especially after
so much time in the gym. Nothing like a bit of tenuous slab to warm you up!
After lunch, we did a solo lap on
Hermaphrodite Flake (5.8).
It would have been fun to keep going, but the clouds were starting to
threaten, and we didn't want to arrive back home too late, so we called it
and began the long drive back.
It was sooooo great to finally get outside again. I had forgotten what real
rock tasted like, and I'm really glad that we played around so much at
Pine Creek. That area is awesome, and there's still so much left to do there.
I'll be heading back for sure.
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